Worm farming is another alternative to composting; it is also referred to as 'vermiculture' or vermi-composting. Usually tiger worms are used for worm farming in New Zealand, though red worms can also be used.
Worm farming uses the same principles as composting, but it does not generate heat, making it cold composting.
Worms happily eat food scraps and excrete valuable materials known as vermicasts and worm tea which are high in nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (NPK) compared to ordinary soil.
This makes them valuable for plant leaf growth, root and stem strength, flower and fruit growth.
Bins generally have two to three layers; some bins can have extra layers added to increase capacity. Note that it is easier to harvest worm casts from bins which have more shallow layers. Size, price and functionality vary a lot, so ask questions before you buy!
You can easily make a worm bin out of large buckets, polystyrene trays or an old bath.
If you use a bath, remove the plug. If you want to, you could build a frame to allow the bath to sit securely at waist height. Bricks, posts or blocks may be used for elevation, and for stability, i.e., 100-150mm height (allowing room for the liquid collection container placed beneath the plug outlet). The plug outlet end must be no less than a 5 degree fall to the lowest point to achieve adequate drainage. Roofing such as ply or corrugated iron will be needed to shed water and provide protection from summer sun.
Place into the base of the bath 1.5m of 65mm perforated drainage pipe with two layers of old stockings. This seals the ends and covers the perforations which stop the pipe blocking. Add pumice sand or scoria to a depth of 75mm then place shade cloth, doubled over and cut to fit, on top of filtering layer.
Free-draining fibrous matured compost is ideal given that it is not going to produce heat. Dampened shredded corrugated cardboard and lunch paper give increased air availability and reduce the risk of bedding material heating up. You need to water well and leave at least two days. Then check for temperatures over 25 degrees. If there are any unpleasant odours, apply two handfuls of garden lime and mix in. Only apply old lawns clippings, as fresh clipping heat up and cook the worms.
For quick results, 500g-1kg (2,000-4,000 worms) should be enough for your worm farm to cope with 400gms to 800gms of mixed food waste each day. This volume will increase as the worms multiply. Spread worms on to bedding and spread food scraps in one area and rotate feed sites.
As the bath fills use a garden fork and loosen the bedding; this increases air circulation and reduces bedding compaction.
To remove the casts, once the worm farm is full (after 9 to 18 months), place a plastic sheet or large container next to the bath and using a garden fork remove the top half of the worms' bedding. This is undigested food and is where a majority of the worms will be. Place this to one side.
Remove all casts. Rinse drainage layer thoroughly catching all liquid. Replace the contents that were put aside and commence the feeding, forking, watering process when required.
Your bath worm farm will ultimately digest about 1-2 litres of mixed organic waste a day.
|Too much for population
|Fruit/vinegar flies around farm or small white bugs and worms
|Cover food with damp paper and add Lime to increase pH
|Worms climbing up sides/worms very fat and pale
|Add paper products and dry leaves, gently fork holes in the working layer
|Too dry or acidic
|Add water/lime. If your worm farm is on legs, place each leg in a container of water to stop such pests from getting in.
|Food rotting and not eaten
|Too much food/wrong food/ pieces too big
|Add less food, break into small pieces
|No worm tea
|Not enough water
1000 is OK, but a bin takes some time to get going; 2000 worms (500gms) will get a bin working much more quickly and efficiently.
Worms like a mix of fruit and vegetables (70%) and carbon material (30%). Carbon material includes scrunched up envelopes, handee towels, tissues, shredded paper - any paper that is NOT shiny and coloured or plastic coated is OK. Worms don't like citrus, bread, meat, onions, garlic, excess kiwifruit of large amounts of grass and leaves.
Add a decent sprinkling of lime and wait a day or two. If you still have flies, add more lime and carbon material (e.g., paper or dried leaves).
A small handful of lime or gypsum once a month helps to keep the food sweet.
Add to the bin as follows: 1-2 weeks: empty out your fridge of any fruit and vegetables 2-3 weeks: dried grass or coconut fibre from a garden centre or worm grower 4+ weeks: coconut fibre block from garden centre or worm grower.
Worm tea is very high in nitrogen and needs to be watered down to about 1:10, or so it is the colour of weak tea. The liquid is so rich that it can be harmful if not diluted.
Worm casts can be mixed with potting mix, seed raising mix and compost (about 20% casts to 80% mix), and is the perfect medium into which to plant seedlings, plants and trees. Casts do not have to be diluted for use in the garden, but make sure they are mixed in to the soil. For best results, add compost and mulch as soil cover.
Disclaimers and Copyright
While every endeavour has been taken by the Napier City Council to ensure that the information on this website is accurate and up to date, Napier City Council shall not be liable for any loss suffered through the use, directly or indirectly, of information on this website. Information contained has been assembled in good faith. Some of the information available in this site is from the New Zealand Public domain and supplied by relevant government agencies. Napier City Council cannot accept any liability for its accuracy or content. Portions of the information and material on this site, including data, pages, documents, online graphics and images are protected by copyright, unless specifically notified to the contrary. Externally sourced information or material is copyright to the respective provider.
© Napier City Council - www.napier.govt.nz / +64 6 835 7579 / firstname.lastname@example.org